Tasmanian Devil May Care......

Hello from Oz,
Where to begin? We're back in Melbourne after experiencing six wonderful days in Tasmania. A real surprise. The island was astoundingly beautiful and we made full use of the campervan, we'd hired, to get out into the wild and do some 'services free camping'. We've not seen whiter sand on this journey than those on the beaches of Tassie', (as it's known out here).
The islands population were interesting folk, largely related to the convicts that were sent there by the Brits early in the country's history. Beard growth seemed very popular amongst men, with many of them looking like eighties rockers ZZ-Top. There were many hardcore bikers on the roads and I can imagine a Hell's Angel's chapter fitting in quite nicely in the capital city, Hobart. Many of the people we came into contact with were so laid back and so surprised that we'd travelled so far,(apparently, only 3 percent of the visitors to Oz actually visit Tassie). There were many familiar names on the Island. We passed through such places as Swansea, Bridport, Devonport, and even parked the car in an area called Dunn Place. Maybe my past includes a convict or two, need to check up when we get back. Convicts feature heavily on the tourist trail and people seem to be proud of this aspect of their heritage. Rightly so, I think, as the islands towns, cities and transport links were all constructed, (and often designed) by them. We cannot wait to return to the island and finish it off there was so much more to see.
As I said before, we're back in Melbourne. This is a city like we're used to seeing North of the Equator; cosmopolitan and full of contrast. There are alley-ways plastered with imaginative grafitti and fly stickers, there are skateboarders, bmxers and 'alternatively' dressed people at every turn. These contrast heavily with slickly dressed office workers and affluent shoppers. Looking up, above street level, we have seen some great examples of world architecture. Victorian Gothic Revival, Art Deco and Deconstructivist styles appear to comfortably fit together and reveal the cities apparent, progressive attitude. It's the sort of city where Jo and I feel at home and we have had fun negotiating cafes, galleries and parks again. At times it feels like it used to in London when we lived there, especially London in the Spring.
We leave for London on Wednesday, via New Zealand and the USA. We will arrive in Heathrow at 11am on Thursday 9th September. That's right, five months early! We have good reason for breaking off the trip. Our sister-in-law, Melissa, is not responding at all now to her cancer treatment and has been told that there is nothing that the medical profession can now do to hold off the disease. Our family are important to us and we feel it's time to 'return to the fold'.
So finally, I would like to thank you all for reading all of the e-mails we've sent on this trip. This has been, for me anyway, the most creative thing I've done in the last Seven months. I've loved some of the comments people have sent in reply to all my sweeping statements and generaliztaions. People have been so kind. It's been so nice to know you've all been 'travelling' with us and following our progress). It's what gives Jo and me courage; knowing there is a great safety net of friends and relatives waiting for us in the UK. Can't wait to see you all soon and tell you about the other friends we've made along the way.
Love
xgregandjox

Half Around the World to go to Cornwall....

Hello Again Everyone, Sorry it's been so long.
We have had a wonderful past week touring and walking around the coast of Victoria. The Great Ocean Road has been really beautiful at times. The coastline here is just like parts of Devon or Cornwall in the UK. Green fields top rugged limestone and sandstone cliffs which cascade down to an azure blue sea. The sky has been an opaque blue and the breeze has been refreshingly cool. We've heard larks on several occasions which really adds to the English feel. The difference between here and home however is that we've been watching pods of fur seals lolling on their backs and waving their flippers in the sunshine. We've also seen half a dozen or so whales, ('Right Whales' to be precise), off the coast swimming amongst the numerous skilfull surfers that also populate these waters.
We are currently in Queenscliff. We came via Port Fairy, Port Campbell and Lorne from Hall's Gap in the Grampian Range of Mountains. Whilst we were in the Grampians we saw rock wallabees,(mating!) and in the nearby Eccles Mountain National Park we spotted five wild Koala's! As we were looking into the eucalyptus trees at our fifth mammal of the day, a man approached. He was German and was wearing a 'Bon Jovi 2001 Tour' t-shirt. Hiis female companion was straggling behind, towed by his obvious enthusiam. He was clutching a tiny camcorder and was gagging to sneek a look at a Koala. He couldn't believe it, (I mean, neither could we), he exclaimed earnestly, "Ve have travelled ten souzand kilometers and zis is our first Koala!" He was so chuffed, it was great to share the moment.
We have drifted in our choice of accomadation between 'backpacker' hostels, guesthouses en- suite' caravans and now YHA's. An english traveller whom we met months ago in India told me that the Backpacker 'scene' is hard to escape in Oz and we were unsure then what he meant. Australia has captured the market for these fun hostels where young people can meet others like them and socialise temporarily before going on to the next guided tour. As we're over thirty and a couple, we've felt very self conscious a times, so the relative freedom of having a car and going self catering has been a welcome break from all the backpacker 'fun and games'.Talking of fun and games; whilst in Adelaide we were discussing our experience of thin backpacker hostel walls, (you may remember our randy and noisy friend on Bali), with a guy from the Isle of Man. He was in his early fifties and was on an enforced 'break' from a relationship with a woman in his home town of Douglas. A radio presenter by profession, he was adept in asking questions, but also into extracting advice on what he should do in his present relationship predicament. As it was our second night in Oz, Jo and me happily drank a few beers with him as he began to tell us of his backpacker dormitary tales. He remarked that he too had been disturbed by other guests, "enjoying carnal pleasures". Only the other guests were in the next bunk and in the same room! He happily told us of his revenge strategy. He went out the following night and found himself a female Puerto Rican bunk partner(in Oz, backpacker dorms are often mixed) and proceeded to subject his room mates to the same noisy treatment. A good case of tit for tat!
We enter the big City of Melbourne tomorrow, we are staying there for three nightls, initially, before moving inland again to the Mountain Ranges of the South East. We're armed with new fleeces to take on the Alps and are looking forward to seeing some snow
We're enjoying our stay here. It took some time to adjust from Asia, but the country has alot to offer. Freedom, space, safety and relaxation are the words that spring to mind.
Bye for now,
xgregandjox

Web site for Victoria Youth Hostels so you can see photos.(Grampians, Port Fairy, Port Campbell, Lorne, Queenscliff)Click the link below:http://www.yha.com.au/hostels/search/region.cfm?regionid=74

A Close Shave in Cambodia
 
Hello Everyone,
We were REALLY sorry to say goodbye to Japan and to our friend Shin.  The three weeks we spent in his country were some of the best on the trip.  The whole experience was full of surprises and delightful moments that we're already talking about our return visit.  However we must keep moving around the earth. We're almost exactly half way through the trip and we're now back in Bangkok.  We're staying for five days en-route to Hong Kong, where we'll stay until the 31st when we depart for Perth, Western Australia.  We spent the last four days in Siem Reap, Cambodia.  Our principle reason for visiting this small town was to visit the Angkor temple complex.  A much anticipated highlight of our trip that we almost didn't get to see, (due to our side-step to Japan), we were afraid the Angkor experience might not live up to all the wonderful descriptions that people had given us along the way.  How wrong could we have been? 
 
The initial trip into the temple complex, (covering an area of around 40sq km) led us to Phnom Bakheng, a hill temple over-looking dense forest, (the forest reminded me of Planet Endor from The Return of the Jedi), and gave us our first view of Angkor Wat, the largest of all the Angkor Temples.  The whole experience was a bit of a free for all, with tourists of all nationalities clambering up the steep steps to get the best seat for the sunset.  The experience wasn't completely ruined by the camera wielding hoards but it did make us wonder if all the temples would have to be seen in the same way.  Luckily this wasn't the case and over the next three days, Jo and I travelled by tuk-tuk or bicycle to see sights, which at times were, almost too amazing for words.  Some temples were engulfed by tree roots, others were proudly complete and surrounded by neatly trimmed lawns.  One notable occasion on our visit was when Jo and I visited Angkor Wat.  We made our way inwards and upwards into the centre of the building, eventually having to ascend some absurdly steep steps to get to the highest point.  The view from the top was really moving and I soon lost it, I had tears in my eyes looking out over the beautiful sight of the massive temple, surrounding grounds and beyond to a deciduous forest periodically dotted with ball-shaped palm trees.  It must have been the heat.  The heat might have also been responsible for Jo getting vertigo and not wanting to go back down!  It had seemed an easy climb and earlier Jo had whizzed up the fifty or so steps with no problems.  Tentatively, Jo began her descent.  She gripped the metal hand rail, that was hot in the mid-day sun, and slowly joined me in climbing back down.  Jo was REALLY brave and as we walked away from the ordeal she also began to cry.  In different ways, the whole experience had been quite over-whelming for both of us.  The intensity of the days emotions were further amplified by the strange sight of a circular rainbow around the sun.   It was so clear and seemed particularly odd as it wasn't raining.
 
 
On this trip, the normally pedestrian past-time of getting a hair cut, has been a great way to get come into contact with indigenous peoples.   I've had my barnet cut in India, Malaysia and most recently Cambodia.  The Cambodian trim proved to be the best so far and provided me with one of the best experiences to date.  Whilst cycling one morning in Siem Reap, (Jo was taking a nap), I happened upon a tiny barber's shop.  Overlooking a muddy football field and raised a few feet off the ground, the shop was basically a shack with no electricity, a corrugated iron roof and matted hair was piled high under the red vinyl chair.  The barber motioned me into the hut with the scissors that he was using to cut a young boys hair.  He pulled up a pink, plastic garden chair and told me to sit down.  The passing locals stared at me, some nearly falling of their bikes.  I seemed to be a real oddity.  Behind the mask the barber wore, I could tell he was wearing a huge smile.  A woman, with a small child perched on her hip, appeared from behind the sheet hanging at the rear of the shop.  The barber and the woman chatted to each other and were obviously surprised that I wanted my hair cut.  The boy having his hair cut seemed very patient as the barber chatted to me and the woman, (who turned out to be his wife).  He didn't move as the barber went onto finish the job with a cut-throat razor.  I was beginning to regret my haircut decision but I watched as the man used the razor to skillfully shave the edge of the boys hair.  More surprising, was the boy having the edges of his eyebrows shaved.  I  began to really regret my decision now. 
 
It wasn't long before I was in the hot seat, dirty pink towel around my neck, hands gripping the chairs arms.  Young children sat and looked on as the barber used hand shears, swiftly removing layers of hair from my head.  Periodically, the barber spoke to me in Khmer  I couldn't understand a word he said.  Each of us verbally communicated enjoyment and laughed at the fact that neither of us could understand the others' language.  The hair was coming off in clean clumps and the inevitable cut-throat was beginning to bother me.  In the mirror, I could see the barber sharpening his blade.  He lowered the chair with a jolt and I was exposed from the neck up.  Now, I know the dangers of using a traditional razor.  I am aware of the dangers of bacterial infection. However it seemed out of place to say anything and I somehow trusted the barber to perform a clean job.  He quickly shaved my neck and before I knew it, he was around the front going at my brow.  He noisily scraped the shiny blade over my face.  At this point, I was getting worried but managed to keep it together whilst he finished the job.  As I lay there, I wondered how it might look but was beginning to worry more about Jo taking the piss.  It wasn't long before I was safely  shaking hands with the barber.  He seemed thrilled at having cut my hair and I was thrilled at not having being cut.  I took a photo of him, his wife and his grand-children.  The barber couldn't believe the tiny digital images on the rear of our camera. His obvious delight spurred me into getting the images printed the next day.  You should have seen the smiles and heard the laughter when Jo and I returned with the photos, the day before we left Cambodia.  A small crowd of local kids soon gathered and we were swallowed up in their delight.  Jo was handed the baby grand-daughter and my head hurt from grinning so much at the sight of it all.  A wonderful way to finish in Cambodia. 
 
I'll attempt to send some photos soon.
 
xgregandjox

  

 

Hi From Kyoto,
We arrived here on Friday of last week, the only way you can travel from Tokyo to Kyoto in just over 2hrs, is on the Bullet train! The journey would have taken 8hrs by bus, so we treated ourselves to the experience as a joint birthday present. It was everything we thought it would be. The train itself, though white, clean and emblazened with the words, AMBITIOUS JAPAN, was ever so slightly ugly. It's nose reminded me of a duck-billed platypus, but it looked aerodynamic and sleek. We felt a bit out of place sat in our shorts, flip-flops and had difficulty hiding our excitement for the anticipated experience. A young Japanese man arrived and sat across the aisle form us. Firstly he was uncommonly bald. From his ears hung huge silver looped rings and he was wearing an authentic vintage Hawaiian shirt, these all went well with his bright red cowboy boots,( we ceased to feel so out of place). The train slid out of Tokyo Station on rails that are welded together. This negates the passenger of the usual clackety-clack sound and the rocking motion of a regular train. It also meant we had difficulty gauging our speed. But you only had to look out the window at the Japanese landscape whooshing by to know that we were going BLOODY FAST!!

Apart from the two thousand or so temples and the traditional elements of Japanese culture evident in the city, I have particularly enjoyed the shopping in Kyoto. Some shops seem to be an exentsion of their owners' personality. Like walking into someones head, you're faced with clothes being hung next to stuffed toys, novelties and skateboards. A shop might exclusively devote it's floorspace to Canadian branded products or a more specific and bizarre example, the American band 'the Grateful Dead' . I've never seen anything like it. It makes shopping a pleasure. it makes you want to buy something because you feel you're buying somebody's art. I'm just itching to buy a pair of genuine carpenters jeans, made only in Vancouver. Not sure what that says about me or the person selling them.

Finally, we've witnessed an interesting phenomenon during our stay, here in Japan. There are many homeless people on the streets and sleeping in the parks of Tokyo and Kyoto. We've seen remarkable make-shift houses, mostly covered with blue tarpaulin, alongside rivers and roads here. They house people, who generally appear to be middle aged, I guess they are the 'by-product' of a rich and prosperous working culture going through recession and change. The strangest development, I think the homeless people have brought about is, the sale on the streets of, the BIG ISSUE. The homeless seem to be ignored by the population at large. They appear to be an embaressment. The introduction of the Big Issue might help to change this. But seriously, the homeless people are different to those we've experienced elsewhere in the world. No-one has ever asked us for money here and we've seen no-one begging. Honor and self respect still seem intrinsic to being Japanese.

xgregandjox

Hi folks from Kyoto,
Greg is preparing one of his mails, so Im going to write an additional mail to you - which is not easy as I cant find the apostrophe key and keep pressing something that turns my words into  Japanese characters.  This is a nice internet cafe though as they give us a portable Mac iBook to sit at our table with whilst we eat our lunch.
We totally love Japan. The longer we are here, we realise how little we ll  manage to see in only three weeks, and how much more there is to  do here.
All the anticipated stuff like kimono clad maidens, sushi, bonsai and pichenko slot machines have been surpassed by so many more interesting and unexpected things. The streets are so clean and no one vandalises the numerous vending machines - which ALWAYS work and ALWAYS have the item you want. People dutifully recycle all their litter and the recycling bins are outside every shop and vending machine.  We have often said that taxi drivers are the same the world over (i.e pushy, irritating and rude), but the drivers here are the exception to the rule. Our driver the other day wore white gloves and a 3 piece suit. He wasn t sure where our guest house was, so used his mobile phone to ring them up and check so as to get there by the most direct route.
There seems to be a refreshing lack of  foreign multi national company advertising  of products like Coke and McDonalds.  They do exist, but are not as apparent as Panasonic, Fuji, Toyota, Suntory and Nissan. We have enjoyed the healthy presence of Starbucks though as our guest house doesn t provide breakfast! A cafe culture seems to be alive and well, so we re never far away from a coffee and cake.
Many of the cars here are like dinky toys, and have all evolved into little cube shapes (Nissan have in fact called their car the Cube). The reason for this became clear when we walked along one of the numerous little side streets in Kyoto. The houses are so small and garage space is minimal, and only the smallest cube shape could fit in these tiny slots.  The perfect solution!
I hadn t realised that the Japanese were a nation of dog lovers, but we see so many little poodles, terriers and chihauhas all with pretty collars and ear ornaments - even a dachshund with a raincoat with angel wings on - all happily sitting in the baskets on the front of bicycles, whilst their owners go shopping.
A most exciting discovery for me was the 100 yen shop - which means it s even cheaper than the pound shop! Even tacky plastic stuff in Japan is better quality than it is in the UK, and it must have been the place where our guest house owner bought our green terry-towelling toilet seat cover from.  It is certainly the place where I ll be buying Pokemon earpicks as gifts.

xjoandgregx

Hello again from Japan,

Still here in Tokyo. Still loving it. It's tirelessly exciting and, as I've said before, it feels very safe. This feeling of safety has enabled us to wander freely around town and if we get lost we just ask someone for directions. People are often initially shy, but seem to like to help a foreigner' in need. We've spent today arranging the next leg of the trip and visiting Ueno Park and the National Museum of Western Art.(http://www.nmwa.go.jp/) The building was the big draw for me in particular, as it was designed by Le Corbusier, one of my favourite architects. It lived up to all my expectations, clean concrete lines, interior glowing glass panels and airy exhibition spaces dotted with exquisite works of mainly, European art. A pleasant surprise was the use of typically Japanese building materials, such as green glazed bricks, on some exterior walls. These looked so modern and worked beautifully with the bamboo and acer trees that encircled the museum.

Last night Jo and I sat on the corner of 'Sunshine 60' Street in Ikebukuro at about 6:30, the middle of rush hour. Wave after wave of office and shop workers, students and school children were released by the little green man, over the pedestrian crossing infront of us. It was great fun to watch and we became dizzy with the movement of people heading for the local subway station. Various commonalities in apparell began to appear from the throngs passing by. Subtle uniforms were revealed, though not the school type. Jo and I agreed that the most bizarre 'group' are the young people that are obviously using fake tan ointment or a sunbed. They bleach their hair so that it appears to be orange like their skin. They wear beach vests and shorts and the girls totter around on ridiculously high white stilletoes. The whole look is reminiscent an audience on Top of the Pops circa. 1985! We later ventured into Sunshine City, a fifty storey building containing a shopping precinct where teenagers' shopping lust is satiated. The 80's look can be bought 'off the peg' but neither Jo nor I were tempted to join them in the apparent celebration of all things trashy from the past two decades. Hilarious.

More soon.

xgregandjox

Hello again from Japan,

Still here in Tokyo. Still loving it. It's tirelessly exciting and, as I've said before, it feels very safe. This feeling of safety has enabled us to wander freely around town and if we get lost we just ask someone for directions. People are often initially shy, but seem to like to help a foreigner' in need. We've spent today arranging the next leg of the trip and visiting Ueno Park and the National Museum of Western Art.(http://www.nmwa.go.jp/) The building was the big draw for me in particular, as it was designed by Le Corbusier, one of my favourite architects. It lived up to all my expectations, clean concrete lines, interior glowing glass panels and airy exhibition spaces dotted with exquisite works of mainly, European art. A pleasant surprise was the use of typically Japanese building materials, such as green glazed bricks, on some exterior walls. These looked so modern and worked beautifully with the bamboo and acer trees that encircled the museum.

Last night Jo and I sat on the corner of 'Sunshine 60' Street in Ikebukuro at about 6:30, the middle of rush hour. Wave after wave of office and shop workers, students and school children were released by the little green man, over the pedestrian crossing infront of us. It was great fun to watch and we became dizzy with the movement of people heading for the local subway station. Various commonalities in apparell began to appear from the throngs passing by. Subtle uniforms were revealed, though not the school type. Jo and I agreed that the most bizarre 'group' are the young people that are obviously using fake tan ointment or a sunbed. They bleach their hair so that it appears to be orange like their skin. They wear beach vests and shorts and the girls totter around on ridiculously high white stilletoes. The whole look is reminiscent an audience on Top of the Pops circa. 1985! We later ventured into Sunshine City, a fifty storey building containing a shopping precinct where teenagers' shopping lust is satiated. The 80's look can be bought 'off the peg' but neither Jo nor I were tempted to join them in the apparent celebration of all things trashy from the past two decades. Hilarious.

More soon.

xgregandjox

Hello from Tokyo,
Well we managed to get a reasonably priced flight from Laos to Japan and, with the help of a japanese friend we met in Malaysia, find a guesthouse in the Asakusa area of Tokyo. The train journey from Narita Airport to town was easily negotiated with the kind help of a couple of native Japanese people and we checked into the Khaosan Guesthouse (great web-site, www.khaosan-tokyo.com). The owners, like everyone we`ve encountered in this city, have been so kind. From the bunk bed in our tiny room , I can look over the Sumida river and see the Azumabashi Bridge, (dozens of 'jet-skis' went by this morning, using the river for pleasure). The most remarkable thing about the view, is the building in the photo I've attached. 'The Flamme D'Or', designed by French architect, Phillipe Starck, for the Asahi Brewing Company. It's is an amazing, if bizarre sight, and I've taken it as a good omen that we can see this from where we're based. The room is very reasonably priced at 4500Yen a night. (200Y to the Pound ). Beer costs about 1.5 pounds a can and both of us can eat a really good noodle meal with beer for about 11quid all in! No chance of us starving or losing any weight; the portions are huge and it's impossible(or rude) to leave any. The caf市 and restaurants often have plastic food or pictures in the window which makes ordering SO mush easier.

We're only beginning to understand the scale of the city. It's huge. Yesterday Jo, me and Shin our Japanese friend, walked for hours in the humid conditions, moving from one area to another and taking in the sights of the Imperial Palace Park, Chiyoda and Ginza. Each area is distinct and different. the Ginza area, for example is an immense shopping district, specializing in expensive designer products and luxury goods from all over the world. The streets were wide, clean and the buildings were monolithic glass covered structures, topped off with neon japanee signs, that seemed blindingingly bright as it began to get dark.

The day before yesterday, we made a pilgrimage to the Bandai Museum:
(www.bandai-museum.jp/miru/g_museum/g_museum.html) It's the home of toy manufacturers Bandai. They produce toys and merchandise for such notable japanese T.V. programmes as 'The Power Rangers' and 'Gundam-Fighting Suit' and such past classics as 'Godzilla'. We did'nt feel out of place wandering around the exhibits and interacting with the lively museum staff, most of the patrons were over thirty.

The city, has so far, been quite overwhelming. First impressions are that it is a friendly city; it's clean, safe and very exciting. We are exhausted because everything is new and interesting. Even the smallest details are strangely stimulating to our western eyes. We have so much more to see and can't wait to show you and tell you about it.

All I can say is, by coming here we've made another dream come true.

xgregandjox

(www.japan-guide.com - Amazingly helpful Japan tourist web-site, with pictures!)

"I was lost in Laos....."

Hello Everybody,
Tuesday 15th
This morning Jo and I had breakfast in a small open-fronted cafe. On our table was a red and white chequered table-cloth. We had warm baguettes with butter, apricot jam and a dense cup of continental strength coffee. We looked out over a road where people on mopeds and push-bikes rode on the right hand side of the road. Because of the already scorching sunshine, motorcycling women held umbrellas in their left hand to shield themselves from the morning sun. To top it all off, the "Last Waltz" was being sung in French over the cafe's loud-speakers. A very Parisian scene, you might think, but we're now in Luang Prabang, Laos.

Luang Prabang is a beautiful sight from the green hills; a red roofed peninsular town with the wide and swollen Mekong gliding slowly by. It's the rainy season here, so the showers frequently punctuate, what can be, very hot days indeed. The temperature can reach about 40 degrees centigrade in the middle of the day. Although we're relatively well adjusted to the heat now, we still have to take the occasional afternoon nap to re-charge our sight-seeing batteries. The previous French occupants have left a legacy, not only of food and culture, but also amazing architecture. Many buildings could have been lifted from the French countryside and placed here like dolls houses. White washed, red tiled 'Auberge' with green shutters and doors, (they even have the little blue and white plaques over the door way!), lie in tree fringed gardens alongside traditional Laos teak houses. The main street, in the 'Old Town', is lined with the afore-mentioned cafes and restaurants. In the evening these are filled travelers, many who appear to be middle class and generally white, discussing the days excursion to a cave or waterfall. The whole place has a surreal but relaxing feel and has been described by a fellow traveller of ours as 'Chic'. Moreover, the scene is made even more surreal by the presence of bright orange robed-monks wandering around the town on their way to the numerous gold leaf-laden temples(wats) in the area.

UNESCO has designated Luang Prabang 'World Heritage Site', (I looked on the UNESCO web-site for an explanation of this title but got lost in the wordy pages). I'm not sure exactly what that means for the people of Luang Prabang but the conservation of the beautiful buildings and streets here is already evident. The colonial architecture is being lovingly and proudly restored and will hopefully not be smothered in ten storey hotels thanks to UNESCO management, (No more buildings over three storey's are to be built in L.P.) If only this had happened in India where the colonial past is decaying or being swallowed up by concrete and functional practicality.

Friday 18th
Yesterday Jo and I shared a mini pick-up with a lone British traveller by the name of David. He's an ex-Head Teacher, on a three week trip in S.E.Asia and is VERY well travelled. We wanted to visit the local grave of French explorer/writer, Henri Mouhot (1826-1861). He's credited for'discovering' Angkor Wat in Cambodia(where we will be arriving on 25th June). A short taxi drive over terracotta mud roads, with mist topped mountains beyond, took us to the humble burial site. The white painted monument stood amongst deep foliage near a quickly moving part of the river. It seemed a rather fitting place for the resting place of an explorer.

As we left the site it began to rain. As it's the wet season, rain here is HEAVY and the country roads soon turn into streams of thick brown gravy. Because of the weather, we decided to visit a local weaving village where, we were told, we could watch people working on traditional silk and cotton looms. We left the taxi behind and went into a simple one-storey building with shutters over the windows. Inside, women of all ages(From 15 to 60?) sat cross legged on 2ft high wooden platforms, fringing the room. Various raised plinths were at the centre of the space and were covered with hundreds of folded weaves which they proceeded to unroll before us in a sort of Mexican wave as we walked around the room. From one woman to the next, each would request us to look at their handy-work. As you can imagine, I particularly found this up-setting and in order to ease my panic I decided to stop at one person and try to blank out everyone else. The beautiful fabrics (about 1.5m long and 0.5m wide ), came in hues of oranges, browns, blues blacks and reds. I could see these had been painstakingly hand-woven on traditional looms. They obviously represented days of labour. I managed to 'Escape' by purchasing four beautiful pieces from two women and . The price of each piece worked out at a wage of about 1 US$ a day; at that price I just didn't have the heart to barter.

The whole experience wasn't too pleasurable but the souvenirs are beautiful. As we've previously discovered on this trip, being a 'tourist' often carries a huge responsibility, regardless of our rationalisations. We could have walked in and out of that room without purchasing a thing. But we felt compelled not to. Not only are we here to expand our experience. We bear have to make sure we pay our way by contributing to the local economy and creating further demand. This will sustain the experience resulting in local profit and a sustainable experience for future visitors. In a funny way UNESCO seems to be doing the same thing.

http://www.visit-laos.com/where/luangprabang/

http://www.unesco.org

Later today we fly to Vientiane, the capital of Laos. Be in touch again soon.

xgregandjox

Moonlight and Motorbike Madness...

Hello Everyone,

One evening in Sangklabhuri Jo and I were privaledged to witness the Buddhist festival of 'Visakha Puja'. It is one of the most important days for Buddhists because, they believe that, on this day the Lord Buddha was born, attained enlightenment, and died. All three of these significant events fell on the same day. It falls on the full moon of the sixth month of the lunar year, coinciding with our visit to the area.

A woman in our guesthouse prepared a bouquet of flowers, incense sticks and a beeswax candle for both Jo and me. When the sun had set, Jo and I walked over the long foot bridges to the other side of the lake. The moon was already full and rising quickly in the dark blue sky. Myanmar(Burmese) Mon and Karen peoples live in this area of Sangklabhuri and we were washed along to the local Buddhist Mon Temple by men and women wearing ceremonial sarongs and sashes. Teenagers whooshed past on motorbikes with as many as four passengers. And children laughed at us when we replied to their questions of "How are you?" and "What is your name?". The head monk would be arriving at the Temple at around 8:30pm to bless the ceremony and give teachings. We stood at the base of a 10 foot concrete lion with red lights for eyes, one of two identical creatures guarding the entrance to the holy building. The atmosphere was growing and the motorcycling youth began arriving in their droves, (not too early of course to look un-cool). They were fascinatingly dressed in their best black t-shirts, drainpipe jeans and converse trainers. The logos were familiar to us; Linkin Park, Nirvana, The Exploited, Dead Kennedy's. All western and mostly alternative music. I wondered if the boys had ever heard a song by The Damned or the Clash?

The main-man monk, bald and dressed in orange robes appeared from a shiny and new black pick-up truck, complete with blacked out windows and chrome bull bars. He appeared frail and quite young and slowly made his way up the stairs where he sat at a half way point and gave a teaching sitting down. Occasionally people would wai, (Hold hands in prayer and nod) at his commanding and this went on for about ten minutes. Jo and I were wondering what we would have to do with our bundles and a kind local man, (dressed in a Lacoste golf shirt and with a daughter and son-in-law living in Switzerland, whom he regularly visits to pick mushrooms and climb mountains), filled us in on what to do. All became clear at the end of the teaching. Everyone moved toward the covered walkway near to where we were standing, a path there encircled the temple. Lighting the candles and jos sticks, people began to walk around the path in a clockwise direction. We joined in and were swept along the circular corridor, surrounded by teenagers and children clutching their lighted offerings. It was so exciting and we had no means of escape, other than to go around the full three times. We were lucky to come out without being burnt. We were laughing hysterically with everyone and were nearly separated on several occasions. Each rotation, three in all, took about three minutes to complete. At the end of the final rotation everyone raced to place their candle on the edges of walkways and walls at the entrance to the building. We placed ours alongside the others and enjoyed the sight as we walked away into the night.

We'd had a wonderful evening and enjoyed walking home by moonlight, watching lightning illuminate white cauliflower shaped clouds on the distant horizon. Magic.

Love
xgregandjox

P.S.
In Sangklabhuri we stayed at the Burmese Inn. The guesthouse overlooks over the Khao Laem Lake and the longest wooden bridge in Thailand. The friendly and helpful Austrian owner reminded me of the keyboard player from 70's band 'Sparks'. There's a photo of the lake and the bridge at this address: http://www.geocities.com/burmeseinn/sangkhlaburi.html.

Thailand-Part Two. Bridge on the River Kwae...

Hello Everyone,
I am writing this e-mail in an air conditioned, brightly lit room containing 16 bang-up to date computers in the small town of Sangkhlaburi, Northern Thailand. This might not seem remarkable to you, but this sleepy town is a tiny wooden housed affair populated by Thai, Burmese and Laos peoples who seem very laid back and appear outwardly, un-interested in technology, (except for the ubiquitous ownership of brand new 110cc motorcycles and immaculate pick-ups). It's a Buddhist holiday today and it's already really hot. Outside the double glazed entrance doors, people pass by with silver sun umbrellas on their way to the market. Teenagers are playing computer games all around us. Occasionally, I hear "Fire in the Hole" and sporadic gunshot along with the constant plink' of electronic piano is coming from the more sedate on-line games...Surreal.

We're north of Kanchanaburi where we stayed for a couple of days. You might recognise the name as being the place along the 'Death Railway'(built by the to carry freight between Japanese occupied Burma and Thailand), where the famous bridge crosses the river Kwai or Kwae as it's correctly known. It's a moving sight when you first see it, especially as we hadn't yet seen the film, of the same name, from start to finish, (and still haven't). The bridge is concrete and steel, I'd imagined it to be wood. The scale of it makes it easy to imagine men building it by hand.

The town end of the bridge, is populated with cheap and nasty souvenir shops and a trashy museum someone has hastily put together to profit from visitors. Within the museum were poorly executed plaster models of G-string clad allied soldiers and dusty glass cabinets containing run-down, postwar motorcycles and ephemera often painted with the word "Japanese'. Quite insulting to anyone who actually helped construct the railway, I should imagine. Strangely, the museum also contained a gallery of paintings of Miss Thailand Pageant contestants, complete with original dresses worn in the contest. The 'official museum is at the other end of the town and is a more sensitive affair. Opened by a former Japanese soldier, now a Buddhist monk, there are some moving photographs and accounts that more suitably described the horrible conditions. What we learnt was that 30,000 British, 28,000 Dutch and thousands of Australian and New Zealand soldiers died in the construction of the railway. The photos we saw were pitiful, and the accounts of the soldiers were humbling. Proud men being made to live and work in horrrendous conditions working for a cause that wasn't their own. We also learnt that over 100,000 estimated Thai, Burmese and Indian and people also died. Nowhere in the town is a there a memorial to them...

Later in the evening we entered a Thai vegetarian curry house. 'The Bridge on the River Kwai' was showing on the 32" T.V. We thought we'd stay and watch the film as we were in such an appropriate location; afterall, the area has received a lot of visitors due to the film's success. We were the only ones in the restaurant except for a female traveller from Costa Rica. We watched the 'stiff upper lip' treatment being displayed by Alec Guiness and his fellow soldiers. The Japanese seemed positively compassionate, contradicting we'd read earlier in the day and the conditions looked like a holiday camp at times. It all seemed rather 'tickety boo!' and fairly light hearted. The food proved to be wonderful, but the film proved to be too embarrassing to watch in such circumstances. The inaccuracies were too numerous to ignore. We left soon after finishing our meal. Sorry Alec Guiness.

Love
xgregandjox

Thailand Part 1

Hello Everyone,
Sorry it's been a while. I'm trying to catch up with the back log of activity. This is the first of a few e-mails from Thailand to bring you up to date. Alternatively delete them from your Inbox and go to: http://joandgregdunn.blogspot.com

(28.05.04)
KRABI
We travelled to Bangkok from Krabi in the south in a 'Fisher Price' proportioned plane on 22nd May. We did enjoy the beaches and beautiful landscape in Krabi Province. To those who might not know, the area is now famous for being the location for the shooting of the film, 'The Beach', starring Leonardo De Caprio. We were unaware if this fact when we arrived, so were slightly surprised to see a real glut of western travellers in the vicinity(this is low season too). For me, this had the effect of acting like a huge mirror, it was like the scene in 'Toy Story 2' where the character, Buzz Lightyear walks into a toy shop isle only to be faced with a thousand other toys of himself. It reminded me that we are not alone in travelling this path, and it's a far less 'exclusive' adventure than it sometimes feels. It's great that lots of people can do it, (largely due to The Lonely Planet etc), but it spoils the experience a little to have the feeling that your sitting in Upper Street, Islington, when you're actually half way around the world. I wonder if any other tourists feel like this?

Anyway, I was reminded of the phrase "Make it your own" that a valued friend of once said to me.(You know who you are)

whilst in Krabi, Jo and I also went Kayaking in mangrove swamps and through water bottomed caves. The landscape was full of huge limestone, sugar-loaf shaped outcrops, fringed with foliage and orangeand grey in colour. The area is also a world renowned rock climbing district. We started to experiment with Thai food in Krabi, and gradually worked our way from pasta on the first night to 'Pad Thai'(fried noodles with shrimp and chicken) on fourth and final night, an amazing feat considering we managed to but it from a street vendor who hardly spoke any english. We should do this more often because its often a quarter of the price of food bought from a 'Farang', (westerner) restaurant.

BANGKOK
In Bangkok, we were lucky to be able to stay with an long-time teacher friend ours, Anita. She lives in a beautiful Condominium, complete with swimming pool, sauna and gym. On our first night, we were thrown into the thick of Bangkok night life and visited the area known for vice and 'girlie-bars'. We were driven to the area by Tuk-Tuk. A three-wheeled, gas driven, soft topped vehicle driven by a guy, on what we guessed were, amphetamines. He twitched like a mad man and might have chewed his tongue off had he not been chewing gum instead! Other cars screamed past and the sweet warm night air was quickly sucked through and over the three of us. The tuk-tuk growled like a 'Mini Cooper S' and the whole experience was akin to being on a fair ground 'waltzer'. As soon as we gratefully left the vehicle, we, and me in particular, were inundated with offers of 'Entertainment' and "Nice girls". Seedy and skinny, men handed me laminated 'menus' with diagrams and worded descriptions of sexual positions that the occupants of their bars would happily perform for us. The men reeled off descriptions of sexual activity that began to get wearing and frankly, sickening. We couldn't comprehend some of the entertainment being offered and felt saddened that it such activity was so easily accessed. We headed for a 'regular' club and drank and danced the rest of the night away.

But Bangkok is more than the sleazy sex industry. So much more. for example, we visited the home of Jim Thopmson, a former CIA operative who became a silk trader after the war. He mysteriously disappeared on a lone 'walk' in the Cameron Highlands, Malaysia. This has sealed his legendry status in the city and his silk business is now an empire partly due to the fact that it supplied silk for the costumes of the the original Broadway production of the 'King and I', (interestingly, the story is still a sore point in Thailand. The government still refuses to officially allow showings of the movie.) The quality of the silk that the company produces is amazing and comes in such beautiful colours and patterns. His home, completed in 1959, comprises of five traditional, wooden Thai houses on stilts and joined together to make one building. It was tastefully and timelessly decorated with Thai ornaments and antiques and the whole effect was like a beautiful interior design coffee table book-a very expensive one! www.jimthompsonhouse.org

Love from

xgregandjox

To the Bat Cave!!!

Hello Everyone, hope you're all well,
We boarded the coach from Kuala Lumpur at 8am,(still sounds like someone else's holiday e-mail), and were joined by a large and rowdy middle class Indian family. Fifteen people in all, who proceeded to use the P.A. system to tell jokes and rhymes in Hindi, without any consideration for anyone else. Jo soon put an end to the merriment by quietly suggesting to the girl holding the microphone that, "I think that's enough now". Crestfallen, the girl sulkily, returned to her seat and we were able to get some sleep. We were dreading sharing the next part of the journey with the family. We would be travelling 3 hrs up the Tembeling River and were afraid they would spoil it for us. We needn't have worried. We were deposited onto a 40ft long and 4ft wide hard wood boat complete with outboard engine and driver sitting on the back. We had the boat to ourselves and we did'nt hear a peep from the driver for the whole journey. As you can imagine, riding on a slow moving, cocoa coloured river through a steep and thickly vegetated landscape was wonderful. We were so relaxed and felt thoroughly spoilt. The trip was evocative of so many films, 'Apocalypse Now', 'The African Queen' and maybe 'Deliverance.'(without the squealing pigqy noises!)

We spent the next three nights 'deep' in the Taman Nagara Jungle. We slept in an'A-frame' wooden hut with a corrugated steel roof, very comfortable. Now Jo, as you may know, likes insects and bugs. She was in her element here. We witnessed so many wonderful insects, scorpion, stick insects, stag beetles, catydids, crickets, cicada's and one snake. We also saw horn-bills flying overhead and lizards swimming in the river. We were constantly taking photos and laughing hysterically as the beetles dive bombed us, much to amusement of the camp staff.

One of the highlights of the trip was a short walk to a cave. As usual, the guide gave us no real warning of the perils that lay within. The cave had a wide mouth and seemed to be quite roomy....at first. As we entered further into the darkness, the base became wetter and their was a faint smell of cheap beefburgers and onions(the kind you get at a funfair). We switched our torches on and were treated to the sight of hundreds of bats hanging from the cave ceiling. A wonderful sight, especially as they were so close, you could easily have reached out and taken a bite of ones head. We were told they were harmless and we tried to put the thought of Rabies contamination out of our heads. The smell turned out to be bat droppings. We progressed deeper onwards and the cave began to narrow. We wondered, looking at the hole that lay ahead, how we were going to get through? especially as the opening lay next to the water at the base of the cave. The gap must have been about 18 inches 'low'. The guide led the way and easily slithered through into the other side. Jo was next. She managed to wriggle through only to place her hand in a large patch of bat 'guano' much to her disgust! I squeezed through last of all and to my relief remained guano free, but managed to submerge one leg into the dirty water. Another few yards onward and a few more bats later we emerged into bright light of day with a feeling of relief at having survived another, safety advice free, excursion.

We are off to Penang tonight for a few days, hopefully on a comfortable night bus. Malaysia , as I may have said before, has really surprised us. It's been SO easy to travel here. People are genuinely friendly and helpful and the transport system has been a doddle to work out, Let's hope Thailand is equally as easy.

Bye for now,

xgregandjox

P.S.
On our last day, the satellite movie playing loudly on the camp T.V. was 'Predator' starring Arnold Shwarzaneggar.
Perfect, I couldn't have thought of a better movie to play in the middle of the jungle!

Escape from Singapore

Dear All,

After our Bali escapades, we took another quick stop-over in Singapore. It has to be said that we quickly tired of Singapore. The obsessive cleanliness and body image is just not conducive to our backpacker lifestyle. We traipsed across a very hot causeway into Malaysia, where we caught a very comfy bus and then a nifty speedboat which took us across a stretch of the South China Sea to a little slice of heaven on an island called Pulau Tioman.
Picture the scene: We awake in our little wooden cabin next to a beach of fine golden sand. We sit and eat fresh pineapple and melon under the shade of coconut palms, swim in the clear warm water and then marvel as a bloomin' great monitor lizard the size of a canoe saunters across our path! There are huge ants, butterflies, spiders and bats as well as the afore mentioned lizards. Greg said it's like Jurassic Park here - and it truly is. We went snorkeling and the marine life is equally impressive. We saw a large turtle, a modest shark and a huge fish called a Napoleon fish. We thought it would be pleasant to feed the multitudes of smaller, colourful fish with pieces of bread - startlingly it caused a sudden feeding frenzy and there was chaos and panic - I'm afraid the casualty was a Dutch lady who was bitten several times. We swiftly ditched the bread, but I almost drowned laughing with a snorkel in my mouth (serves me right for laughing at another's misfortune.)
We found ourselves hankering after some city life, so are now in Kuala Lumpur. What a wonderful city this is! There is dirt, graffiti, rubbish and it's not perfect, but we love it. By day the Petronas Towers glisten, workers seek refuge in airconditioned offices, and the Petronas park draws mothers and children to the paddling pools and playground. At night fairy lights adorn the palms, the humungous shopping malls are teeming with people, there are cafes and bars and coffee shops full of chatter.
Malaysia is extremely easy to travel around and the people are very helpful and amiable. The country is predominantly Muslim, and it's wonderful to see groups of Muslim women enjoying themselves on the beach, snorkeling, skateboarding, playing arcade games, riding on roller coasters, driving scooters - always appropriately fully clothed, complete with head covering underneath snorkel masks and crash helmets. It's a shame some tourists weren't a bit more respectful - seeing people topless sunbathing really made us cringe.

More on Malaysia soon,

xjoandgregx

Paradise Found.

When I was a kid I wanted to be 'Joe 90'. Don't know if you remember him, but he could handle any specialized task, just by putting on a pair of dodgy buddy Holly specs' and sitting in a whirly- spinny thing for five minutes, enabling him to carry out a supreme rescue mission. The one skill I wished for was to be able to speak every language on earth. I thought having the ability to travel anywhere on the planet and understand what was being said to me would be fantastic. Well, in a way, on this trip my dream has partially come true. We've just spent a few days in the Gili Islands, they lie off the north coast of Lombok. To be precise, we stayed on Gili Air, a Salmon steak shaped island which is our favourite place yet in Indonesia. The island is almost perfectly flat, with coconut groves, jersey cows, VERY long legged chickens and foot long geckos roaming around. There are no cars or motorcycles, only horse drawn carts and battered old BMX bikes for transport. It has a farming community feel, a really laid back ambience where walking quickly is living fast in the fast lane. Incidentally, it takes takes an hour and fifteen minutes to walk around the entire island which tells you just how small it is. We stayed in another thatched hut,(this time away from any other guests), in a place called 'Coconut Cottages'. This 'development' is owned by an amiable Glaswegian lady who is married to a local man. We virtually had the place to ourselves. We were able to snorkel on the local reef,(we saw a moray eel and clown anenome fish!) and lie on the beach without being bothered by anybody. The food on Gili Air was out of this world, we ate fresh food at every meal; tuna, barracuda, marlin, red and black snapper were just some of the fish we enjoyed. The island has a feeling of true 'paradise', by that I mean it is not contrived, it is working community with a school and market and local shops, the beach just happens to be beautiful and the sea, once again, delightfully warm. But perhaps one of the best things about this part of the journey has been the contact with other travellers as well as the indigenous peoples. It has made me think that we have met SO many people from all over world, Dutch, German, Indonesian, Indian, Spanish Italian, French, Norwegian, Danish etc. The point is, we've all been able to communicate with these people because we all speak english. We are so fortunate that we have had this in common, it has meant that we've been able to share opinions and stories and educate each other as to our cultural differences and similarities. So in a way my dream of being Joe 90 has, like I said, come true. We speak a language that has enabled to travel to virtually anywhere on the planet and be understood and I don't have to wear the silly spectacles to do it!

We leave Bali later today to return to Singapore, will be in touch again soon.

Bye for now,

xgregandjox

Did the earth move for you too Jo?...

Glad to be back on-line. We're now staying in a small town called Padang Bai on the east coast of Bali. We travel out to the Gili Islands tomorrow morning on a four hour ferry journey, should be fun.
the snorkelling is said to be some of the best in the world, so we can't wait.

We are currently staying in a two storey, thatched bamboo cottage. The sleeping quarters are on the first floor whilst the bathroom is on the ground level. The thatch is amazing stuff, it stood up to a torrential rain storm the day before yesterday and not a drop of water was felt inside. However, the foundations and sound-proofing could be a little better and I'll go into more detail about that later.. As for the price, it works out at about 3 quid for the two of us, including breakfast,(brought to our door!), not bad eh?

Anyway the most amazing thing happened the other night. Whilst still in Lovina, (the posh hotel), Jo and I were woken in the middle of the night by a strange sensation. We thought we felt the bed move. Jo and I were pretty scared and thought it strange to have had the same dream. Well then it happened again, only this time the whole room shook violently. The light fittings swung to and fro' and the windows clattered really loudly. The tremor continued for about 15 or so seconds. It was pretty scary and sent shivers up both our spines. It was pretty hard to get to sleep afterward, what with the barking dogs and the hotel staff doing the rounds to check everything was okay. We found out the next morning, that the tremor was rated 5 on the Richter Scale, and had an epicentre in the sea off Java. It wasn't too large, but it did re-enforce the importance of knowing the way out of a hotel when you check in.

And so back to the thatched hut. Padang Bai, is a small port. It's a place where people pass through on their way to Lombok and the afore-mentioned Gili's. There are alot of Dutch people here, probably due to the fact, that the Dutch East India company was based in Indonesia a couple of Centuries ago. There is a laid back ambience to the town. People freely lie on a beach naked(innapropriate in a Hindu/Muslim country) and seem to be totally ignored, (except by us). There seem to be alot of single, bronzed, pierced, paunched and gold clad, old men about. There are also numerous nubile, and hospitable Balinese women living in their droves in the locality. Anyway, a Dutch gentleman just happened to move into the hut next to ours last night. We thought nothing of it and said 'Hello' as he passed our door on his way to the bar. Funny thing was Jo and I were once again woken in the night by a tremor shaking our hut. However this time it wouldn't have registered on The Richter Scale and didn't go on half as long.....

We have, at times, genuinely found paradise here in Bali. Some of the beaches have been beautiful, the rice paddies were so picturesque, the food has been great and some people,(when they were'nt trying to sell us something), have been really friendly.

Anyway, bye for now, and onto the Gili's,

xgregandjox

Hello Everyone,
I'm happy to say Jo and me are back to normal and feel completely well again. We're still in Northern Bali, (Lovina). The weather is still hot and humid but bearable. We are staying in the most luxurious hotel of our journey so far. The room is the size of a suite, with a huge balcony overlooking green palms and banana trees. We feel like a king and a queen and all for 8 quid a night including breakfast(expensive for this part of the world!). Seriously, if you ever decide to go on holiday in Indonesia or South East Asia, don't come on a package, do it independently, the rates are always negotiable.

Culturally, the Balinese experience is very different to India. Tourists are also currency here, we're constantly being asked if we'd like transport or would like to buy souvenirs. It gets warring but if that is all we have to worry about, then so be it. Australians seem to be prolific here and the tourist culture is really built around them(lots of lager happy hours). It's so quiet right now, it's hard to tell whether this is because of the low season or if it has anything to do with the terrorist bomb which happened almost 18 months ago. The scenery is lush and I've never seen light like it. I know it's a long way away but I can imagine the paintings in Polynesia by Gauguin being painted here; the people have the same appearance and the flora and fauna is so similar. We've seen butterflies as big as your hand and spiders in metre wide webs the size of small rodents.

We went snorkeling yesterday. The water was warmer than a hot bath at home, I couldn't get over it. It was actually too warm at times! We got to see live coral reefs and some massive fish. There were purple and green parrot fish the size of jack russel terriers at the tips of our fingers.
Jo got very sun burnt and had to lay on the bed last night covered with a damp towel...narsty!

There's not much more to say really as we've not experienced many other people or alien culture. It's meant that we've had a lot of time to think. I've particularly, been thinking a lot about home and friends and family and have felt a bit homesick, afterall we've been away for two and a half months now. I knew this would happen sooner or later but moving onto another place (Padangbai) on the East of the island will hopefully pep things up a bit.

All the best for now,

xgregandjox

Hello Folks,

I have muscled in before Greg this time to fill you in on our escapades.

After our brief introduction to the delights of airconditioning in Singapore, we fell hopelessly ill with a chest infection and shivers. We just about limped onto our flight to Bali where we then settled into to a beach resort bungalow in Kuta. We felt thoroughly miserable for a good 3 days after this, until we visited a clinic for some jumbo antibiotic tablets. That sounds appallingly spoilt of us, as we were surrounded by lush greenery, a beautiful swimming pool, hibiscus and frangipani flowers and large butterflies, but we felt so wretched!

Moving on from Kuta Beach, we headed north to Ubud. This is apparently the cultural centre of Bali, and there is PLENTY of art here. There are wood carvings, paintings, wicker-work, batik fabrics, ceramics and some wonderful furniture. However, we aren't here for the shopping, so we took a stroll around the area instead, along 'the ridge', a path alongside a small ravine and looked at the fantastic rice terraces and palm trees.
Balinese people are so attractive and charming. Everyone says hello and even if you don't take up their numerous offers of 'transport' , 'marijuana' or 'shopping', they will still stop and help if you get lost. (Greg has even been offered a Balinese lady ["very spicy"], but he respectfully declined.)

The Balinese houses are works of art - the carved concrete entrances often have fierce gargoyles either side of steep steps leading up through a narrow entrance. Once inside, the housing 'compound', there are various raised covered platforms for eating and sleeping, joined by carefully maintained paths, dotted around with beautiful bushes and shrubs. The roof tiles are very ornate, but many roofs are thatch. We have stayed in a couple of these family areas now, it's so peaceful and the whole family just go about their daily business.
The culture in this part of Bali is Hindu, and every evening at around 6pm, they place little dishes made of palm leaves outside houses, temples and their workplaces. Each little dish contains frangipani flowers, a little rice or sweets, and a wonderfully scented jos stick. The bearer of the dishes also sprinkles a little water over the area too, and the whole act is so magical and the whiff of scent in the warm air will always be evocative of this.
We have been sampling some Indonesian cookery whilst we've been here - it really is delicious. They really know how to make you feel comfortable in restaurants and everything is presented so well.
We went to watch a 'Legong', a traditional dance involving 5 women dancers. It was fascinating - they use their hands and feet in a particularly expressive way, and wear eye makeup to accentuate their eyes and the glances and eye movements are very poignant. The musicians were so talented also, and bashed out some amazing tunes on what looked like pressure cookers and triangular xylophones!

I have run out of time now, but will speak again soon.

Jo.

Oh Kolkata....
Well We got to Calcutta(Now Kolkata) four hours late. Arriving at noon, we soon found a taxi to take us to a hotel in Sudder Street, (Kolkata's backpacker area). We were set to meet our friend Kate who is working in the City as a volunteer for Calcutta Rescue, a charity providing free health clinics to socially disadvantaged people. As we drove throught the streets we could feel and see that this town is very different to Delhi. Trees grow in profusion, the streets are so much wider and are full with beautiful yellow Ambassador cabs. We passed a park that looked like Hyde Park in London and saw some Raj era buildings that also reminded us of home.

This wasn't the Kolkatta we'd expected. We managed to get a room at the same hotel as Kate and it was great to see that she was happy and the work was everything she'd hoped it would be. We had a guided tour onto the Metro,(so much cleaner, spacious and safer than London's effort), we then made our way to the Victoria monument in The Maiden, (the park we had seen). What a wonderful surprise. A beautiful White Marble building, multipally domed and set amongst lush green lawns. Really bizarre to see this in India when we could have so easily been in South Kensington. This first walk has set the tone for our time in Kolkata. We REALLY like it here, generally, it's more friendly than anywhere else we've been,(however some of the young Indian men continue to be TOO friendly to young western women).

Yesterday, we ate at Pizza Hut in a shopping centre alot like the Trocadero in London or the Merry Hill Centre in the near our home in the midlands. There were ice cream parlours an air conditioned western movie theatre. It was a surreal experience but was great to share it with Kate and her fellow volunteers(British and German).

Today, we were fortunate enough to see the clinics where people are treated and educated in matters of health. We saw four clinics, a handicraft workshop and a school. The facilities although seemingly humble were really well organised by paid local staff and the overseas volunteers. Prescriptions were written in both Bengali and a visual format to ensure that people could understand when they were to take their medication. It was a fascinating experience and it made both Jo and me feel that what was going on there is a wonderful and worthwhile project. Kate and her fellow workers are doing an amazing job out here. They all deserve to be paid handsomely for the work they are doing for free and should be recognised for doing so.

On the flip side of the efforts put in by Calcutta Rescue, an annoying side of the poverty problem in kolkata is the 'do- gooding' western tourists we witnessed handing out money, biscuits and other food stuffs will-nilly as if it were 'the thing to do in kolkata'. they could be witnessed holding beggars hands and hugging the odd baby. You have to wonder who they are doing this for? Jo called this the Mary Poppins Syndrome which made Kate and me laugh. These people insist on re-enforcing the begging principle instead of implimenting the healthcare and individual empowerment that is needed to help eradicate suffering on the streets. They'd do better to give their money to an organised charity instead of putting it into the hand of another beggar reliant on other people for survival.

Anyway enough ranting. We fly out tonight, (Tuesday 30th) to Singapore. Looking forward to it. But not looking forward to saying goodbye to Kate and, believe it or not, India...

Bye for now,
xgregandjox

http://www.calcuttarescue.com

Varanasi, city of the dead...well almost dead.

Story 1
One thing we hadn't planned upon in Varanasi, was meeting an Australian tourist at the station when we first arrived. Our train was late, so we ended up arriving in at about 11pm. We got off the train and immediately began to attract the usual attention from taxi and rickshaw drivers asking"where you want to go? and what hotel you staying at?" We've hardened up to it now and coped pretty well, considering we were frazzled from the journey. We emerged from the station to see a crowd of a dozen or so indian guys standing arguing around the base of a six foot bearded western man who was about 30. He looked stressed, to say the least and was fully laden with a huge back-pack. I asked him if he was okay and said he could join us in a rickshaw if he had no plans. He seemed really grateful and relieved to be going to a hotel we had pre-booked. Well to cut a long story short, Alex stayed with us(in the spare bed in our room) for two nights. Big mistake. On the boat at sunrise, he spotted someone he knew in another boat. He screamed hello to his friend and jumped ship! He stepped from our boat to theirs and waved goodbye. We were so shocked and I muttered something about paying the boat guy. He did a runner that afternoon, leaving us a small donation to the room and not having paid the hotel owner, (who was a really nice man) money for the food he'd eaten. He also never paid me for the boat. This man claimed to be a buddhist. He knew alot about the subject and practised his mantras regularly. He showed us his books and beads and how he used them. He seemed okay at first but both Jo and I went against our gut instinct to help another westerner in distress. Next time we'll think twice..... We saw Alex again on the way out of Varanasi. He'd attached himself to another bunch of people. Only hope they manage to shake him as soon as they could...

Story 2
Varanasi is a great place. Really atmospheric and very, very hot. The Ganges was the centre of all activity there, particularly in the morning when people went there to wash and pray to their various gods. We witnessed this amazing spectacle under the morning sunrise(the best we've yet seen on this trip) on two occasions. It was worth getting up at 5am and go by cycle rickshaw in the dark to the edge of the water where we were besieged by people trying to sell us boat rides. We did go on one boat ride and it provided an amazing viewpoint of the banks(or Ghats). We were shown by many people the way to the burning ghat. The site of cremations that happen around the clock 365 days a year. We witnessed bodies, wrapped in beautiful gold and orange silks being lowered into the water and then placed on a pire to be burnt. In broad daylight, we watched the moving ceremony that is as natural as breathing in this holy city. People are not allowed to mourn next to the body and widows are not allowed on the ghat through the fear that they might jump onto the fire aswell, (it happens!). Apparently, not everyone in Hindu society is disposed of in this way. Lepers, pregnant mothers, snake bite victims and priests are weighed down with a rock and dropped into the middle of the river. This seems ludicrous in a river that is already, heavily polluted and used by people to bathe. We later witnessed the 'fruits' of this type of burial. In the heat of the mid-day sun as people were swimming, an over turned bloated body came floating about 20 feet from the ghat. People did their best to ignore it and everyoned seemed to go a bit quiet. This was bad enough we thought, but then five crows proceeded to perch on the back of the fleshy pontoon and began pecking at the corpses behind! The sight took a few minutes to float away and once out of sight it was, seemingly, out of mind. Eveyone carried on as they had done before, Jo and I though had to go for a cup of tea and a long chat....

Anyway we've learnt a few a few things along the way in India, but most importantly know this. If you're going to throw a man in the river, weigh him down properly, especially if he's a six foot Buddhist named Alex....

Bye for now,

xgregandjox

Hello everyone,

We have now reached Varanasi - what a fantastic place this is!! I think this is the India we've been searching for. It is fascinating, friendly and has so much genuine charm, whilst remaining a living, working town. We took a boat ride this morning to see the ghats by early morning light, and it was magical. Unfortunately, our stay here is only brief, but this is definately a place deserving a second visit. There were 3 species of kingfisher diving into the Ganges, children splashed around, women washed clothes, men posed for our benefit, people performed blessings, bodies burned, water buffalo wandered around the shoreline - there was so much to take in, and the Ganges itself was vast and tranquil. We became lost in the jumble of backstreets and glimpsed folk going about their daily business in their homes, shops and workshops.

We sat and watched the cricket again yesterday, another well deserved win for India - more fireworks and merriment.

It is blisteringly hot at the moment and it's only 10.30am, but we have stumbled upon some delightful shady courtyards in guesthouses and cool alleyways where we can people watch and recouperate.

Next stop is kolkata, we leave on another sleeper train tomorrow night. Lets hope it's better than the 23hr marathon the last journey turned out to be!

Bye for now,

xjoandgregx

Hello Everyone,
Well, this is our last day in Mcleod Ganj. We've enjoyed the relative quiet here and will miss the range of world food available. We've not had curry almost two weeks now and have been able to eat good lasagne, noodle soup, sushi and amazing chocolate mousse.

We eventually got to see the Dalai Lama after queing for an hour outside a tiny little hut. The hut contained a man frantically preparing passes to enter the lessons being held at the main Gompa,(buddhist temple) here in town. There were piles of Tibetan passports on the desk around him and people from all corners of the earth were constantly asking him, how long it was going to take. He was doing his best. I stood next to an English Leiff Garrett lookalike who constantly picked through his filthy hair. He had the dirtiest feet I've seen in India and wore a purple sarong. I think he's a bit more hardcore than Jo and I will ever get on this trip. Especially as I couldn't help but listen as he bragged to another traveller that he'd had Amoebic Dysentary; he claimed that he'd still got it and hadn't taken any drugs-he'd simply "willed it away".... We managed to obtain our photo passes before the cut-off time at twelve noon. Other people missed out and were notably frustrated,(to put it very mildly). You really get to see peoples nasty side when a bureaucrat comes between them and their spiritual leader... Later we queued up at the main Gompa to see the 'His Holiness'. Some great english people we had met in Shimla and had Shared a taxi with to Dharamsala joined us and told us of the best place to sit to catch a glimpse. We were split into two queues, men and women, bag searched, body searched and eventually got inside the compound feeling a bit put out. Up a few steps and under the spread of low yellow tarpaulines were sat hundreds and hundreds of people. Old, young, eastern, western, all crossed legged on the ground chattering with excitement, some spinning mini prayer wheels and others inserting radio earpieces to receive the translation that's simultaneously broadcast on an FM frequency. There was a clear group of monks dressed in yellow(as opposed to the normal burgundy) sat at the front around an elaborate high chair. We guessed this was where the D.L. would sit. Sure enough, he emerged from behind us and was led out by a number of other monks. He was tiny in stature but seemed to be smiling heartily at everyone sat on the ground around his feet. He wore, mainly yellow, sleeveless robes and had on the same disarming 70's glasses he always seems to wear. People were nodding and putting their hands together frantically in prayer. We felt VERY out of place, but watched him move to the front of the crowd to take his place amongst his people. Out of respect, we left straight away as we wouldn't be stopping for the teaching. We were glad we made the effort to see this phenomenon, a once in a lifetime chance to see a 'Nobel Peace Prize' winner who radiates love throughout and beyond his enforced exile home of India. I just hope some of the angry visitors at the pass office, took away some of this love and learned to treat other people with more respect in future...

We leave for Varanasi tonight. We first get a taxi to Pathenkot, (3hrs) then get the 12:10am train which will arrive in Varanasi around 9:00pm tomorrow night. We hope to stay just a couple of days and then move onto Kolkata where we hope to fly out to Singapore next Tuesday night. Some of you may have noticed that this is a month earlier than planned. There is a reason. We need to see the ocean and we want to lie on a beach ASAP!

Well, we'll be in touch again. Love to all of you.

xgregandjox

Hello Everyone,
Well, this is our last day in Mcleod Ganj. We've enjoyed the relative quiet here and will miss the range of world food available. We've not had curry almost two weeks now and have been able to eat good lasagne, noodle soup, sushi and amazing chocolate mousse.

We eventually got to see the Dalai Lama after queing for an hour outside a tiny little hut. The hut contained a man frantically preparing passes to enter the lessons being held at the main Gompa,(buddhist temple) here in town. There were piles of Tibetan passports on the desk around him and people from all corners of the earth were constantly asking him, how long it was going to take. He was doing his best. I stood next to an English Leiff Garrett lookalike who constantly picked through his filthy hair. He had the dirtiest feet I've seen in India and wore a purple sarong. I think he's a bit more hardcore than Jo and I will ever get on this trip. Especially as I couldn't help but listen as he bragged to another traveller that he'd had Amoebic Dysentary; he claimed that he'd still got it and hadn't taken any drugs-he'd simply "willed it away".... We managed to obtain our photo passes before the cut-off time at twelve noon. Other people missed out and were notably frustrated,(to put it very mildly). You really get to see peoples nasty side when a bureaucrat comes between them and their spiritual leader... Later we queued up at the main Gompa to see the 'His Holiness'. Some great english people we had met in Shimla and had Shared a taxi with to Dharamsala joined us and told us of the best place to sit to catch a glimpse. We were split into two queues, men and women, bag searched, body searched and eventually got inside the compound feeling a bit put out. Up a few steps and under the spread of low yellow tarpaulines were sat hundreds and hundreds of people. Old, young, eastern, western, all crossed legged on the ground chattering with excitement, some spinning mini prayer wheels and others inserting radio earpieces to receive the translation that's simultaneously broadcast on an FM frequency. There was a clear group of monks dressed in yellow(as opposed to the normal burgundy) sat at the front around an elaborate high chair. We guessed this was where the D.L. would sit. Sure enough, he emerged from behind us and was led out by a number of other monks. He was tiny in stature but seemed to be smiling heartily at everyone sat on the ground around his feet. He wore, mainly yellow, sleeveless robes and had on the same disarming 70's glasses he always seems to wear. People were nodding and putting their hands together frantically in prayer. We felt VERY out of place, but watched him move to the front of the crowd to take his place amongst his people. Out of respect, we left straight away as we wouldn't be stopping for the teaching. We were glad we made the effort to see this phenomenon, a once in a lifetime chance to see a 'Nobel Peace Prize' winner who radiates love throughout and beyond his enforced exile home of India. I just hope some of the angry visitors at the pass office, took away some of this love and learned to treat other people with more respect in future...

We leave for Varanasi tonight. We first get a taxi to Pathenkot, (3hrs) then get the 12:10am train which will arrive in Varanasi around 9:00pm tomorrow night. We hope to stay just a couple of days and then move onto Kolkata where we hope to fly out to Singapore next Tuesday night. Some of you may have noticed that this is a month earlier than planned. There is a reason. We need to see the ocean and we want to lie on a beach ASAP!

Well, we'll be in touch again. Love to all of you.

xgregandjox

Well,
We're still in Pushkar. It's easy to see how you could spend a month in this town. We are staying in a residential part of town which has it's own 'charms' and are the only english people in a hotel inhabited mainly by Israelis. This town is a real magnet for Israeli people. We have talked to local people as to why this is. It seems that after National Service (3 years men and now 3 years women) the young people come here to let go. And when I say let go, I mean LET GO! Hair becomes long clothes go skimpy and the cannabis is consumed in great quantities. There is a really good atmosphere and most importantly it feels very safe. People really need to kick back here after their time in the army. We forget that in Israel right now, National Service means Active Service to some extent. We also found out that there is a Synagogue here so people can worship. All vices are left at the door and the shawls and caps are put on as if people were home. The fact that this goes on this way is another testament to Indian society. Indians are very adaptable and accepting of other people.

We braved the Holi day festivities yesterday. Holi Day is the beginning of the Summer for Hindus. To celebrate, everyone throws powdered and liquid paint at each other. We put on some dark clothes and set off down the street. We saw no-one at first and I could hear Morricone music in my ears as we clung onto our water bottles. We bought some orange and red powder from a small store and mixed it with the liquid. We set off again in search of 'aggro'. We were spotted by a group of about six or seven boys stained with purple paint. They spotted how clean we were and began running for us....They squirted us with paint and rubbed dry powder into our faces. We were tussling in the straight and Jo and me were in fits of scream,s and laughter..It was hilarious and totally exhilarating. It was all over quickly and everyone shook hands and moved on saying 'Good Holi' and 'Good Colour". Jo and me re-filled the bottles and moved on toward the central market area. We were greeted by more paint and powder but it began to get a bit more boisterous. We got split up and were set upon by loads of young men, this time who used darker paint and tried to grab Jo's breasts!! A shock, but she was okay..We decided to head back to the hotel not long after and were thoroughly caked by the time we got back. The locals seemed really pleased with the way we looked and considering the way they looked, we fitted in quite well.

A memorable experience and one which we nearly didn't take part in. The paint had stained us ALL over but we scrubbed hard and it came off mostly. We have some photos of how we looked, to send home, I'll try as soon as I can.

Until the next time,

xgregx

PS. Here's a few facts that might interest you.
82 rupees to the pound right now.
1 Litre Mineral Water 10-15 rupees
1 Toilet Roll (100 Metres) 25 rupees
1 Double Room with bathroom 150 rupees a night

Subject: Pushkar, Puja's and Pink Floyd.....

Hello folks,

greg and Jo giving you the latest news from India. We can't believe it's been a month already! We are a little wiser now, and have successfully negotiated our way around Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Mount Abu, Udaipur and are now in Pushkar. Pushkar is very relaxing compared to the rest of Rajasthan. The tourists who come here, seem to enjoy herbal comforts in the form of Bhang Lassi and cheap hash. The clothes are cheap and the sort you'd find in Camden Market circa 1969 and there are alot of people here from Israel, especially young people, here to let go and chill out to Bob Marley and Fleetwood Mac. We were lulled to sleep last night by the sound of the didgeridoo(spell.?) and the girl in the next room is learning to play the flute, she seems to like 'another brick in the wall' by Pink Floyd! The food has been great here too, the falafel and Humous is especially good.

The whole town is based around a clean and quiet lake. Unfortunately, it's quiet because there are private temples surrounding most of it. In order to go near the lake you have to negotiate priests and sadhu's who will give you a 'Puja' or blessing in the form of a piece of string around your neck or wrist. Of course, this costs; we don't know how much though, because we've avoided any contact by sneaking to the opposite side of the lake to enjoy the excellent bird-watching. We also saw massive turtles today too.

We are off now but wanted to say thanks to you all for your feedback and it's great to know you're following us around the world.

Bye for now,

xgregandjox

PS. We recently sent out some photos but peoples mailboxes seemed to be full. We'll try and send some smaller pics soon...

Subject: Still in Udaipur....From Greg and Jo.

Hello Everybody,

Well we're still in Udaipur. We leave tomorrow night for Pushkar. We intend to stay a couple of days there to pause and order our tickets to Shimla in Himachel Pradesh(North India). It's becoming very hot already and the English contingent seem to be heading north to the hill stations, just like the English Raj would have done in years gone by. We've met a lot of people either coming from or going to Nepal so that may be a realistic possibility afterall. For now, we're staying at a wonderfully chilled guesthouse (The Panorama, Hanuman Ghat, Udaipur), where we can relax away from the persistent rickshaw drivers and art shop owners. There are a few other English people staying and so we have some drinking partners.

We've encountered some wonderful people on this trip. We've particularly enjoyed the company of a couple of radio journalists from Montreal Canada. They've been working in Afghanistan helping to set up a radio station for women to communicate to each other, post-Taliban. We're really getting an education whilst we loaf around and this is making the trip doubly valuable.

Yesterday we traveled by style in an Ambassador taxi with our Canadian friends to Ranakpur. Here we visited a Jain temple that contains 1400 individually carved pillars at about 20 feet high. I felt like I'd walked onto the set of Bladerunner or into a Frank-Lloyd Wright house. The temple was created in the 15th Century, I think, but had such a contemporary feel-(Maybe worth looking up on the web for images).

Another highlight of the day was lunch. In a sparse concrete dining hall are rows of stainless tables and chairs. You sit in a long line opposite other total strangers.(only one other westerner besides us). The temple charges 20 rupees (25 pence) for a Veg Thali. A thali is usually served on a stainless steel tray. On this tray are smaller dishes that are filled with sauces and dahl(Lentil curry). Men come along and apply portion after portion of further curries and rice to the tray and then provide loads of naan bread or japatties. They keep coming around filling your tray from metal buckets and asking if you'd like more. You can eat as much as you want and with your fingers too! The guy next to me kept nodding at me with delight and I surprised both him and me with how much I could eat, Justin from Canada carried on a good fifteen minutes after us, polishing off naan after naan(heaven knows where he put it). All the while, there were birds and chipmunks passing through the hall and the heat of the middle of the day seemed miles away in there. When we'd finished, we went outside to watch the black faced monkeys going about their business. The business off begging for food and denting the roofs of all the parked cars. A bus load of Indian cub scouts were also entranced by the monkeys and us, as it happened. It was a case of us watching you, watching them, watching us...If you get what I mean.

All in all, we are beginning to relax with the trip and are beginning to understand what we are capable of out here and what we do and don't want to do. We've had some genuinely touching and worthwhile exchanges with Indian people and feel we are beginning to understand our relationship with this country and it's people a little better.

I think a Danish girl whom I met last night summed India up the best so far:(Paraphrased)

"India is exhausting because your CONSTANTLY searching for the truth. As soon as you accept that you'll never know the truth, you'll begin to enjoy your stay here".

Finally thanks for all your replies. We will try and write a few individual ones as we go on(11 months to go). We'll also attempt to send some photos ASAP. ( Digital Photography is getting big here so they'll be no problem saving our pics.)

Thanks for reading and love to you all.

xgregandjox

Subject: Octopussy and life in India - from greg

Namaste Everyone!!

Jo and me are in Udaipur, (Well done some of you for guessing this!). We left Mount Abu a couple of days ago and took the 'vomit express' down the winding road, 1200 meters to ground level. I say vomit express because lots of Asian women we have experienced have had a tendency to get travel sickness when the going gets bumpy. I do have to admit to fearing for my life occasionally on the trip to Udaipur also.

We have ups and downs in the past week. We love the natural side of things and we have met some wonderful, genuine people, both Indian and westerners. Unfortunately, what we have found is constant harassment for our cash. Shop-keepers, taxi drivers, auto rickshaw drivers are constantly onto us to part with our wonger ALL THE TIME. It gets a bit much and has, at times, really spoilt a good moment. I/we are hardening up now though. We can walk by without even saying "no" anymore(which is bad, I know but it's the only way we can deal with it.)

Anyway, enough of the negatives. Mount Abu was amazing. It's the centre for honeymoon couples and because of this, the town is geared up to 'romance'. The main lake (Nakki) has pedaloes, gondolas and giant fibreglass swans in which you can be alone at sunset. The photographers hang around the lake like flies offering to take pictures and showing you their portfolio of romantic pics. If anything these put me off! One evening, we decided to go to 'Sunset Point'. There were(and I'm not kidding here,) what must have a thousand people all sat waiting for the sun to set over the plains below. We sat nearby at a beautiful point with some lovely people we'd previously met, from NZealand. We were the only people there. We could hear the loud chattering and could see the flashes of the cheesy photographers. I wish you could have seen the sunset, but more, I wish you could have seen the crowds of people who, it seems have no minds of their own when it comes to enjoying themselves.

It seems a lot of people here need to be shown how to have a good time. They need to be shown and guided in everything they do. This may explain why everyone here wants to guide you, show you their India and won't let you do anything by yourself. An Indian hotelier told me Indian people are guided constantly through their lives; Their parents have to be consulted before they go anywhere, they are chaperoned by family members and ultimately their parents choose their marriage partners. But this contradicts the way they live the rest of their lives. They believe they have no control over anything. They drive like they have god in the back seat telling them how to negotiate busy traffic. Careers, money, children and the success of marriage are matters that are guided by the stars, so astrology is big, REALLY BIG over here. Even on the train, the other day, a man was reading palms, the queue to have this done was seemingly never ending!

Anyway enough of my opinion, we're off for a beer now and watch the sun go down over the Lake Palace Hotel on Lake Pichola. (This was the setting for part of the film Octopussy, all the hotels around this area show the film every night and most have a Room Number 007.....)

all the best

xgregx

Subject: The Next installment

Dear All,

We have now left Jodhpur and are enjoying the sights of Jaisalmer. The fort is of a beautiful yellow stone with some superb temples sprinkled amongst the narrow streets. We went on a 4 day camel safari, which we thoroughly enjoyed. There is so much to see in the Thar desert; we saw a deserted village with peacocks flying overhead, an oasis, beetles scuttling over the sand, deer and some pristine sand dunes which we slept upon and watched the sun set. (Very touristy, but what can you expect from a safari tour company called 'Trotters Independent Tours', run by a guy calling himself DelBoy!)

We are enjoying the food at last and have sampled a local dish of bruschetta and penne - it never ceases to amaze us how resourceful Indian people are.

It may surprise some of you to hear that we have developed a taste for tea! We love a cup of hot sweet chai in the morning, especially after a long haul-train journey.

Next stop is Mount Abu and Udaipur (location for Octopussy) in the next few days.

Cheerio,
xgregandjox

p.s Internet still bloody slow.

Subject: Hello from G&J

Hi All,

Sorry we can't respond to you all individually right now, but the Internet can be very slow at times (10 mins to open inbox, so we don't have time to even open emails!).

After traveling on an overnight train from Delhi(The Mandore Express), we are now settled here in Jodhpur at the moment, which is a truly magical place. We walked up to the mighty Meherangarh Fort when it was cool this morning and took an 'audio tour' which was so sophisticated and informative. There are fantastic screens of carved sandstone to protect the Maharajah's wives from the prying eyes of men, and when we peered out from the shutters, the vertical drop made our toes curl up. There was a crude nest clinging to a ledge with a baby vulture in it - Bless! Walking around the fort's ramparts, we were descended on by a large group of chattering, colourful sari-clad women, who were very friendly. The view was stunning - the maze of blue houses beneath against the red sandstone was beautiful.

We've both now suffered from poorly stomachs and have gotten over it with the help of the wonderful banana lassi drinks (yoghurt, sugar and banana).

Taken over 80 photos so far and can get these burnt onto disk whenever we need to.

Must finish now, we are in a tiny Internet cafe and it's a bit cramped!

We'll try and e-mail you all ASAP and when the connection is better.
Bye for now,

xgregandjox

Hello again everyone,
Jo and I are working on separate computers as we think we can afford the 20 rupees an hour(20 pence). We have found it hard adjusting to the speed of things here. I thought London was fast and New York even faster, but my god! Actually I can see why you'd need god in a place like this. We've braved Tuk-Tuks(3 wheeled open taxis) now and even eaten a curry or two. Bottled water is easily obtainable so we're drinking plenty of that.

We got to visit the Red Palace today. A beautiful sandstone fort, beautiful arches and domes, just what we came to see. But more importantly we were not bothered, on the whole, by people wanting to sell us something. It really gets you down and I hope we get used to it. Must tell you about what happened there:

Jo and I were sitting reading the Lonely Planet guide when three young men(about 17 or so in age) came toward us and gestured toward me with their cameras. I thought they wanted me to take a photo of them in front of the buildings. I went to take their camera but they said "No, could we take your photo?" So at that Jo and I stood together and one by one they took turns to have their photo taken with us. I was a bit stunned and an american tourist, passing by said, "How does it feel to be a tourist attraction?" I then took a photo of the three of them along with Jo-they clung onto her and seemed absolutely thrilled with the digital picture I showed them on the back of the camera. "Magic!" they said and "Beautiful!" Words pulled from the air in a slightly appropriate way which so often the case here. A couple of young girls in sari's came over with open hands, Jo and I were a bit spooked, thinking they might be after money, but no, they just wanted to shake our hands and say hello.

I feel in demand here, we both do. Everyone wants something from us, money, smiles(this goes a long way when wanting help) or to just to shake our hands.

This place is absolutely beyond words. I have never been so taken over with fear and joy all at the same time. We are adjusting though. The idea of traveling for here three months is scary, but hopefully it will give us the confidence to move onto the other countries, hopefully traveling like this will get easier as we move on. Already, today seems ALOT easier than yesterday.

Anyway gotta go as the computer screen keeps turning off every three seconds. Must go before it blows up. This explains why I've not done a spell check

All the best for now,

xgregx

PS, If you don't wish to receive these e-mails please let me know and if you want to reply, GREAT, but please don't be offended if we takes ages to reply or not at all.