Tasmanian Devil May Care......
Hello from Oz,
Where to begin? We're back in Melbourne after experiencing six wonderful days in Tasmania. A real surprise. The island was astoundingly beautiful and we made full use of the campervan, we'd hired, to get out into the wild and do some 'services free camping'. We've not seen whiter sand on this journey than those on the beaches of Tassie', (as it's known out here).
The islands population were interesting folk, largely related to the convicts that were sent there by the Brits early in the country's history. Beard growth seemed very popular amongst men, with many of them looking like eighties rockers ZZ-Top. There were many hardcore bikers on the roads and I can imagine a Hell's Angel's chapter fitting in quite nicely in the capital city, Hobart. Many of the people we came into contact with were so laid back and so surprised that we'd travelled so far,(apparently, only 3 percent of the visitors to Oz actually visit Tassie). There were many familiar names on the Island. We passed through such places as Swansea, Bridport, Devonport, and even parked the car in an area called Dunn Place. Maybe my past includes a convict or two, need to check up when we get back. Convicts feature heavily on the tourist trail and people seem to be proud of this aspect of their heritage. Rightly so, I think, as the islands towns, cities and transport links were all constructed, (and often designed) by them. We cannot wait to return to the island and finish it off there was so much more to see.
As I said before, we're back in Melbourne. This is a city like we're used to seeing North of the Equator; cosmopolitan and full of contrast. There are alley-ways plastered with imaginative grafitti and fly stickers, there are skateboarders, bmxers and 'alternatively' dressed people at every turn. These contrast heavily with slickly dressed office workers and affluent shoppers. Looking up, above street level, we have seen some great examples of world architecture. Victorian Gothic Revival, Art Deco and Deconstructivist styles appear to comfortably fit together and reveal the cities apparent, progressive attitude. It's the sort of city where Jo and I feel at home and we have had fun negotiating cafes, galleries and parks again. At times it feels like it used to in London when we lived there, especially London in the Spring.
We leave for London on Wednesday, via New Zealand and the USA. We will arrive in Heathrow at 11am on Thursday 9th September. That's right, five months early! We have good reason for breaking off the trip. Our sister-in-law, Melissa, is not responding at all now to her cancer treatment and has been told that there is nothing that the medical profession can now do to hold off the disease. Our family are important to us and we feel it's time to 'return to the fold'.
So finally, I would like to thank you all for reading all of the e-mails we've sent on this trip. This has been, for me anyway, the most creative thing I've done in the last Seven months. I've loved some of the comments people have sent in reply to all my sweeping statements and generaliztaions. People have been so kind. It's been so nice to know you've all been 'travelling' with us and following our progress). It's what gives Jo and me courage; knowing there is a great safety net of friends and relatives waiting for us in the UK. Can't wait to see you all soon and tell you about the other friends we've made along the way.
Love
xgregandjox
Monday, September 06, 2004
Saturday, August 28, 2004
Half Around the World to go to Cornwall....
Hello Again Everyone, Sorry it's been so long.
We have had a wonderful past week touring and walking around the coast of Victoria. The Great Ocean Road has been really beautiful at times. The coastline here is just like parts of Devon or Cornwall in the UK. Green fields top rugged limestone and sandstone cliffs which cascade down to an azure blue sea. The sky has been an opaque blue and the breeze has been refreshingly cool. We've heard larks on several occasions which really adds to the English feel. The difference between here and home however is that we've been watching pods of fur seals lolling on their backs and waving their flippers in the sunshine. We've also seen half a dozen or so whales, ('Right Whales' to be precise), off the coast swimming amongst the numerous skilfull surfers that also populate these waters.
We are currently in Queenscliff. We came via Port Fairy, Port Campbell and Lorne from Hall's Gap in the Grampian Range of Mountains. Whilst we were in the Grampians we saw rock wallabees,(mating!) and in the nearby Eccles Mountain National Park we spotted five wild Koala's! As we were looking into the eucalyptus trees at our fifth mammal of the day, a man approached. He was German and was wearing a 'Bon Jovi 2001 Tour' t-shirt. Hiis female companion was straggling behind, towed by his obvious enthusiam. He was clutching a tiny camcorder and was gagging to sneek a look at a Koala. He couldn't believe it, (I mean, neither could we), he exclaimed earnestly, "Ve have travelled ten souzand kilometers and zis is our first Koala!" He was so chuffed, it was great to share the moment.
We have drifted in our choice of accomadation between 'backpacker' hostels, guesthouses en- suite' caravans and now YHA's. An english traveller whom we met months ago in India told me that the Backpacker 'scene' is hard to escape in Oz and we were unsure then what he meant. Australia has captured the market for these fun hostels where young people can meet others like them and socialise temporarily before going on to the next guided tour. As we're over thirty and a couple, we've felt very self conscious a times, so the relative freedom of having a car and going self catering has been a welcome break from all the backpacker 'fun and games'.Talking of fun and games; whilst in Adelaide we were discussing our experience of thin backpacker hostel walls, (you may remember our randy and noisy friend on Bali), with a guy from the Isle of Man. He was in his early fifties and was on an enforced 'break' from a relationship with a woman in his home town of Douglas. A radio presenter by profession, he was adept in asking questions, but also into extracting advice on what he should do in his present relationship predicament. As it was our second night in Oz, Jo and me happily drank a few beers with him as he began to tell us of his backpacker dormitary tales. He remarked that he too had been disturbed by other guests, "enjoying carnal pleasures". Only the other guests were in the next bunk and in the same room! He happily told us of his revenge strategy. He went out the following night and found himself a female Puerto Rican bunk partner(in Oz, backpacker dorms are often mixed) and proceeded to subject his room mates to the same noisy treatment. A good case of tit for tat!
We enter the big City of Melbourne tomorrow, we are staying there for three nightls, initially, before moving inland again to the Mountain Ranges of the South East. We're armed with new fleeces to take on the Alps and are looking forward to seeing some snow
We're enjoying our stay here. It took some time to adjust from Asia, but the country has alot to offer. Freedom, space, safety and relaxation are the words that spring to mind.
Bye for now,
xgregandjox
Web site for Victoria Youth Hostels so you can see photos.(Grampians, Port Fairy, Port Campbell, Lorne, Queenscliff)Click the link below:http://www.yha.com.au/hostels/search/region.cfm?regionid=74
Hello Again Everyone, Sorry it's been so long.
We have had a wonderful past week touring and walking around the coast of Victoria. The Great Ocean Road has been really beautiful at times. The coastline here is just like parts of Devon or Cornwall in the UK. Green fields top rugged limestone and sandstone cliffs which cascade down to an azure blue sea. The sky has been an opaque blue and the breeze has been refreshingly cool. We've heard larks on several occasions which really adds to the English feel. The difference between here and home however is that we've been watching pods of fur seals lolling on their backs and waving their flippers in the sunshine. We've also seen half a dozen or so whales, ('Right Whales' to be precise), off the coast swimming amongst the numerous skilfull surfers that also populate these waters.
We are currently in Queenscliff. We came via Port Fairy, Port Campbell and Lorne from Hall's Gap in the Grampian Range of Mountains. Whilst we were in the Grampians we saw rock wallabees,(mating!) and in the nearby Eccles Mountain National Park we spotted five wild Koala's! As we were looking into the eucalyptus trees at our fifth mammal of the day, a man approached. He was German and was wearing a 'Bon Jovi 2001 Tour' t-shirt. Hiis female companion was straggling behind, towed by his obvious enthusiam. He was clutching a tiny camcorder and was gagging to sneek a look at a Koala. He couldn't believe it, (I mean, neither could we), he exclaimed earnestly, "Ve have travelled ten souzand kilometers and zis is our first Koala!" He was so chuffed, it was great to share the moment.
We have drifted in our choice of accomadation between 'backpacker' hostels, guesthouses en- suite' caravans and now YHA's. An english traveller whom we met months ago in India told me that the Backpacker 'scene' is hard to escape in Oz and we were unsure then what he meant. Australia has captured the market for these fun hostels where young people can meet others like them and socialise temporarily before going on to the next guided tour. As we're over thirty and a couple, we've felt very self conscious a times, so the relative freedom of having a car and going self catering has been a welcome break from all the backpacker 'fun and games'.Talking of fun and games; whilst in Adelaide we were discussing our experience of thin backpacker hostel walls, (you may remember our randy and noisy friend on Bali), with a guy from the Isle of Man. He was in his early fifties and was on an enforced 'break' from a relationship with a woman in his home town of Douglas. A radio presenter by profession, he was adept in asking questions, but also into extracting advice on what he should do in his present relationship predicament. As it was our second night in Oz, Jo and me happily drank a few beers with him as he began to tell us of his backpacker dormitary tales. He remarked that he too had been disturbed by other guests, "enjoying carnal pleasures". Only the other guests were in the next bunk and in the same room! He happily told us of his revenge strategy. He went out the following night and found himself a female Puerto Rican bunk partner(in Oz, backpacker dorms are often mixed) and proceeded to subject his room mates to the same noisy treatment. A good case of tit for tat!
We enter the big City of Melbourne tomorrow, we are staying there for three nightls, initially, before moving inland again to the Mountain Ranges of the South East. We're armed with new fleeces to take on the Alps and are looking forward to seeing some snow
We're enjoying our stay here. It took some time to adjust from Asia, but the country has alot to offer. Freedom, space, safety and relaxation are the words that spring to mind.
Bye for now,
xgregandjox
Web site for Victoria Youth Hostels so you can see photos.(Grampians, Port Fairy, Port Campbell, Lorne, Queenscliff)Click the link below:http://www.yha.com.au/hostels/search/region.cfm?regionid=74
Friday, July 23, 2004
A Close Shave in Cambodia
Hello Everyone,
We were REALLY sorry to say goodbye to Japan and to our friend Shin. The three weeks we spent in his country were some of the best on the trip. The whole experience was full of surprises and delightful moments that we're already talking about our return visit. However we must keep moving around the earth. We're almost exactly half way through the trip and we're now back in Bangkok. We're staying for five days en-route to Hong Kong, where we'll stay until the 31st when we depart for Perth, Western Australia. We spent the last four days in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Our principle reason for visiting this small town was to visit the Angkor temple complex. A much anticipated highlight of our trip that we almost didn't get to see, (due to our side-step to Japan), we were afraid the Angkor experience might not live up to all the wonderful descriptions that people had given us along the way. How wrong could we have been?
The initial trip into the temple complex, (covering an area of around 40sq km) led us to Phnom Bakheng, a hill temple over-looking dense forest, (the forest reminded me of Planet Endor from The Return of the Jedi), and gave us our first view of Angkor Wat, the largest of all the Angkor Temples. The whole experience was a bit of a free for all, with tourists of all nationalities clambering up the steep steps to get the best seat for the sunset. The experience wasn't completely ruined by the camera wielding hoards but it did make us wonder if all the temples would have to be seen in the same way. Luckily this wasn't the case and over the next three days, Jo and I travelled by tuk-tuk or bicycle to see sights, which at times were, almost too amazing for words. Some temples were engulfed by tree roots, others were proudly complete and surrounded by neatly trimmed lawns. One notable occasion on our visit was when Jo and I visited Angkor Wat. We made our way inwards and upwards into the centre of the building, eventually having to ascend some absurdly steep steps to get to the highest point. The view from the top was really moving and I soon lost it, I had tears in my eyes looking out over the beautiful sight of the massive temple, surrounding grounds and beyond to a deciduous forest periodically dotted with ball-shaped palm trees. It must have been the heat. The heat might have also been responsible for Jo getting vertigo and not wanting to go back down! It had seemed an easy climb and earlier Jo had whizzed up the fifty or so steps with no problems. Tentatively, Jo began her descent. She gripped the metal hand rail, that was hot in the mid-day sun, and slowly joined me in climbing back down. Jo was REALLY brave and as we walked away from the ordeal she also began to cry. In different ways, the whole experience had been quite over-whelming for both of us. The intensity of the days emotions were further amplified by the strange sight of a circular rainbow around the sun. It was so clear and seemed particularly odd as it wasn't raining.
On this trip, the normally pedestrian past-time of getting a hair cut, has been a great way to get come into contact with indigenous peoples. I've had my barnet cut in India, Malaysia and most recently Cambodia. The Cambodian trim proved to be the best so far and provided me with one of the best experiences to date. Whilst cycling one morning in Siem Reap, (Jo was taking a nap), I happened upon a tiny barber's shop. Overlooking a muddy football field and raised a few feet off the ground, the shop was basically a shack with no electricity, a corrugated iron roof and matted hair was piled high under the red vinyl chair. The barber motioned me into the hut with the scissors that he was using to cut a young boys hair. He pulled up a pink, plastic garden chair and told me to sit down. The passing locals stared at me, some nearly falling of their bikes. I seemed to be a real oddity. Behind the mask the barber wore, I could tell he was wearing a huge smile. A woman, with a small child perched on her hip, appeared from behind the sheet hanging at the rear of the shop. The barber and the woman chatted to each other and were obviously surprised that I wanted my hair cut. The boy having his hair cut seemed very patient as the barber chatted to me and the woman, (who turned out to be his wife). He didn't move as the barber went onto finish the job with a cut-throat razor. I was beginning to regret my haircut decision but I watched as the man used the razor to skillfully shave the edge of the boys hair. More surprising, was the boy having the edges of his eyebrows shaved. I began to really regret my decision now.
It wasn't long before I was in the hot seat, dirty pink towel around my neck, hands gripping the chairs arms. Young children sat and looked on as the barber used hand shears, swiftly removing layers of hair from my head. Periodically, the barber spoke to me in Khmer I couldn't understand a word he said. Each of us verbally communicated enjoyment and laughed at the fact that neither of us could understand the others' language. The hair was coming off in clean clumps and the inevitable cut-throat was beginning to bother me. In the mirror, I could see the barber sharpening his blade. He lowered the chair with a jolt and I was exposed from the neck up. Now, I know the dangers of using a traditional razor. I am aware of the dangers of bacterial infection. However it seemed out of place to say anything and I somehow trusted the barber to perform a clean job. He quickly shaved my neck and before I knew it, he was around the front going at my brow. He noisily scraped the shiny blade over my face. At this point, I was getting worried but managed to keep it together whilst he finished the job. As I lay there, I wondered how it might look but was beginning to worry more about Jo taking the piss. It wasn't long before I was safely shaking hands with the barber. He seemed thrilled at having cut my hair and I was thrilled at not having being cut. I took a photo of him, his wife and his grand-children. The barber couldn't believe the tiny digital images on the rear of our camera. His obvious delight spurred me into getting the images printed the next day. You should have seen the smiles and heard the laughter when Jo and I returned with the photos, the day before we left Cambodia. A small crowd of local kids soon gathered and we were swallowed up in their delight. Jo was handed the baby grand-daughter and my head hurt from grinning so much at the sight of it all. A wonderful way to finish in Cambodia.
I'll attempt to send some photos soon.
xgregandjox
Hello Everyone,
We were REALLY sorry to say goodbye to Japan and to our friend Shin. The three weeks we spent in his country were some of the best on the trip. The whole experience was full of surprises and delightful moments that we're already talking about our return visit. However we must keep moving around the earth. We're almost exactly half way through the trip and we're now back in Bangkok. We're staying for five days en-route to Hong Kong, where we'll stay until the 31st when we depart for Perth, Western Australia. We spent the last four days in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Our principle reason for visiting this small town was to visit the Angkor temple complex. A much anticipated highlight of our trip that we almost didn't get to see, (due to our side-step to Japan), we were afraid the Angkor experience might not live up to all the wonderful descriptions that people had given us along the way. How wrong could we have been?
The initial trip into the temple complex, (covering an area of around 40sq km) led us to Phnom Bakheng, a hill temple over-looking dense forest, (the forest reminded me of Planet Endor from The Return of the Jedi), and gave us our first view of Angkor Wat, the largest of all the Angkor Temples. The whole experience was a bit of a free for all, with tourists of all nationalities clambering up the steep steps to get the best seat for the sunset. The experience wasn't completely ruined by the camera wielding hoards but it did make us wonder if all the temples would have to be seen in the same way. Luckily this wasn't the case and over the next three days, Jo and I travelled by tuk-tuk or bicycle to see sights, which at times were, almost too amazing for words. Some temples were engulfed by tree roots, others were proudly complete and surrounded by neatly trimmed lawns. One notable occasion on our visit was when Jo and I visited Angkor Wat. We made our way inwards and upwards into the centre of the building, eventually having to ascend some absurdly steep steps to get to the highest point. The view from the top was really moving and I soon lost it, I had tears in my eyes looking out over the beautiful sight of the massive temple, surrounding grounds and beyond to a deciduous forest periodically dotted with ball-shaped palm trees. It must have been the heat. The heat might have also been responsible for Jo getting vertigo and not wanting to go back down! It had seemed an easy climb and earlier Jo had whizzed up the fifty or so steps with no problems. Tentatively, Jo began her descent. She gripped the metal hand rail, that was hot in the mid-day sun, and slowly joined me in climbing back down. Jo was REALLY brave and as we walked away from the ordeal she also began to cry. In different ways, the whole experience had been quite over-whelming for both of us. The intensity of the days emotions were further amplified by the strange sight of a circular rainbow around the sun. It was so clear and seemed particularly odd as it wasn't raining.
On this trip, the normally pedestrian past-time of getting a hair cut, has been a great way to get come into contact with indigenous peoples. I've had my barnet cut in India, Malaysia and most recently Cambodia. The Cambodian trim proved to be the best so far and provided me with one of the best experiences to date. Whilst cycling one morning in Siem Reap, (Jo was taking a nap), I happened upon a tiny barber's shop. Overlooking a muddy football field and raised a few feet off the ground, the shop was basically a shack with no electricity, a corrugated iron roof and matted hair was piled high under the red vinyl chair. The barber motioned me into the hut with the scissors that he was using to cut a young boys hair. He pulled up a pink, plastic garden chair and told me to sit down. The passing locals stared at me, some nearly falling of their bikes. I seemed to be a real oddity. Behind the mask the barber wore, I could tell he was wearing a huge smile. A woman, with a small child perched on her hip, appeared from behind the sheet hanging at the rear of the shop. The barber and the woman chatted to each other and were obviously surprised that I wanted my hair cut. The boy having his hair cut seemed very patient as the barber chatted to me and the woman, (who turned out to be his wife). He didn't move as the barber went onto finish the job with a cut-throat razor. I was beginning to regret my haircut decision but I watched as the man used the razor to skillfully shave the edge of the boys hair. More surprising, was the boy having the edges of his eyebrows shaved. I began to really regret my decision now.
It wasn't long before I was in the hot seat, dirty pink towel around my neck, hands gripping the chairs arms. Young children sat and looked on as the barber used hand shears, swiftly removing layers of hair from my head. Periodically, the barber spoke to me in Khmer I couldn't understand a word he said. Each of us verbally communicated enjoyment and laughed at the fact that neither of us could understand the others' language. The hair was coming off in clean clumps and the inevitable cut-throat was beginning to bother me. In the mirror, I could see the barber sharpening his blade. He lowered the chair with a jolt and I was exposed from the neck up. Now, I know the dangers of using a traditional razor. I am aware of the dangers of bacterial infection. However it seemed out of place to say anything and I somehow trusted the barber to perform a clean job. He quickly shaved my neck and before I knew it, he was around the front going at my brow. He noisily scraped the shiny blade over my face. At this point, I was getting worried but managed to keep it together whilst he finished the job. As I lay there, I wondered how it might look but was beginning to worry more about Jo taking the piss. It wasn't long before I was safely shaking hands with the barber. He seemed thrilled at having cut my hair and I was thrilled at not having being cut. I took a photo of him, his wife and his grand-children. The barber couldn't believe the tiny digital images on the rear of our camera. His obvious delight spurred me into getting the images printed the next day. You should have seen the smiles and heard the laughter when Jo and I returned with the photos, the day before we left Cambodia. A small crowd of local kids soon gathered and we were swallowed up in their delight. Jo was handed the baby grand-daughter and my head hurt from grinning so much at the sight of it all. A wonderful way to finish in Cambodia.
I'll attempt to send some photos soon.
xgregandjox
